Back in London

I've been traveling the last week which is why there haven't been any posts. But I'm going to try to catch up a bit, now that I have a chance. First the itinerary: Tomorrow, I go to Paris, returning on Saturday. It's a quick trip, but it's all the time I have. We fly to Chicago on Tuesday and then to DC on the 22nd. So, if the posts come sporadically, that's the reason.

I flew to Rome last Monday night. It was Halloween night, so maybe not the best omen, but as I'm not the superstitious type, I carried on. Arrival in Ciampino Airport (Southeast of the city) was smooth and uneventful, however, there is absolutely zero information available about how to get to the city. I knew from my internet research that there is a bus to a train that is cheap, but there was info about which bus or where to catch it at the airport. Instead, there was a sign that said "bus terminal" and pointed to a very narrow bench and overhang in the middle of the parking lot. Following the crowd, I just hopped the first bus that came, got off when the other backpackers got off, and even managed to catch the first train to Termini Station in Central Rome. Chaos is truly the Italian way.

Rome is a what I have crudely termed a "Holy Sh*t!" city. The reason for is that every time you turn around you say "holy shit!" because you see something totally amazing. Seriously, you can basically get whiplash in Rome because there's so much to see. Basically, after one day, I was on full information overload. I did it properly, though, and saw as much as I could including: St. Peter's, the Vatican museum and Sistine Chapel (overrated), the Coliseum, Peter in Vicoli, the Spanish Steps, the Pantheon, Castel Sant Angelo, Villa Borghese, Cript de Cappucini, Fontana di Trevi, Clementine's Basilica, some 4th century crypt that my uncle took me to, the Presidential Palace, and a half dozen other sights that I saw but cannot remember. In short, it was an exhausting time. I walked everywhere, stubbornly refusing to utilize public transportation (and risk pickpocketers), and by the end of the week I was beat down like a Red Headed Stepchild.

A few comments:

I SAW THE POPE. He was in his Popemobile. He looked old and unpopely. Sadly, my pictures of him didn't turn out.

The Coliseum is amazing. To think that something like that could be constructed 2500 years ago and still stand is just inspiring. When walking through it, one wonders if in 2000 years any of the modern day Coliseum's will still be standing. Doubtful.

The Vatican Museum was disappointing because it's not really a museum. A museum tells you the history of things - the good and bad history. The Vatican "museum" does neither. There is a lot of art and maps and things like that, but not much history. I really wanted the dirty version of the history of the Catholic church. Not surprisingly, they aren't exactly talking about the dark years.

Rome is a nuthouse. There seem to be more mopeds and scooters than people. Crossing the street is a matter of daring yourself to jump into oncoming traffic with the faith that they'll stop. In fact, it's an oddly appropriate act - a leap of faith in the city of faith. There's excavations ongoing everywhere. The metro system is extremely limited because every time they dig, they find more stuff that they have to preserve. Yet, there's loads of graffiti, trash, and dirt. It doesn't have the alcohol problem London does, but it has a crime problem that likely exceeds that of London. In short, it's a city of contradiction...i.e. perfectly Italian.

I also met my Uncle there, who, as a priest, has a great feel for the religious side of the city and gave me several tours, filling in fascinating tidbits of information. Plus, he took me to a really nice Italian restaurant that was cheap and utterly fantastic. I can't even begin to describe how totally, fundamentally, incredibly fantastic the Tiramisu was. Tasty, delicious, and succulent.

Still, two themes dominated my time there. First, I was traveling alone. I once wrote (roughly) that I was likely to travel solo again (proved true). But, while solo travel is doable and can be fun, traveling with someone you truly care about and respect is much more enriching and rewarding. When I saw things in Rome that amazed me, those words reverberated in my heart, mind, and soul. What would Ms. Colombia have thought? What would she have said? What would she have wanted to see that was different from me? Don't misunderstand. I thoroughly enjoyed myself. But when I think of how it could have been with Ms. Colombia, well, it pales in comparison. So, in short, I missed her more than I expected for such a relatively short trip and that's a good thing.

Finally, it occurred to me at some point on the 4th day of my stay in Rome, that Rome truly is the birthplace of modern civilization (with Greece laying the foundation for Rome). In that sense, Rome is a city that everyone should see at least once in their life - it's a must see city if there ever was one. But, Rome in its current incarnation is a sad state. The petty crime, the poverty, the graffiti, and the dirty streets all speak to a decaying culture desperate for rebirth, rejuvenation, and failing that, a wet-dry vac. One hopes that in the heart of the Catholic world, the environment would be more suitable.

Sadly, Rome is merely another vast European city with unbreakable ties to the past and a dim and unremarkable future. Much like the British, the legacy of a vast empire permanently departed has stained the culture in ways that will probably never be truly understood. Is this the fate that awaits America? Coming from a country that dominates the globe yet can't control petty crime and can't help those that are most needy, one is left with the impression that America is the modern version of Ancient Rome. The streets are perfectly straight and well paved, the violence of hte coliseum has been replaced with simulation on television, the images and activities that most signify modernity are firmly entrenched in American culture. But, it's an awfully cosmetic picture when millions of Americans live in poverty with no hope of escape, every illegal drug on the market can be had within two blocks of the White House, and homelessness remains the most vivid image of many of the nation's best cities. I love my country, but I fear for its values, its priorities.

Next post: Berlin